Moqueca e Caipirinha: Salvador, Brazil

This past December I had the incredible opportunity to experience my first international travel and visit Brazil.

I was aware that Brazil was a huge country from seeing it on maps, but the diversity of people and culture became very clear as I traveled from city to city. My adventure began in the Northeastern city of Salvador. Located in the state of Bahia, Salvador was Brazil's first capital and is known for its Bahian cuisine, baroque architecture, and music. To begin to understand the culture of Salvador, it's helpful to know that over 80% of the metropolitan population has some Black African ancestry. I have never been to Africa, but being surrounded by the people, sites, and sounds of Salvador, I imagined that this was what certain parts of Africa might be like.

I spent my time in the historic center of Salvador known as Pelourinho (pelo-reen-yo). Cobblestone streets, churches, street vendors, practitioners of Capoeira - an Afro-Brazilian non-contact martial art/dance, historic buildings - some restored, others falling apart, and did I mention churches? Travel-worn, I took the recommendation of the hostel owner and sat down at a restaurant called Restaurante encontro dos Artistas for some nourishment. More importantly, my first Caipirinha in Brazil. Simply put, there was lots of lime, lots of sugar, and lots of cachaca - the Brazilian spirit distilled from sugar cane. Served on the rocks with a little straw, the drink hit the spot.

This was my first experience with Brazilian cuisine, more specifically, Bahian. I went with the first entrée on the menu, Moqueca, a seafood stew flavored with onions, garlic, tomato, cilantro, chili pepper and more. The Bahian version is characterized by the addition of palm oil and coconut milk. Offered with various seafood combinations, I went with camarão y peixe, or shrimp and fish. Served with rice and a side of farofa (a simple dish of toasted maize flour or farina), this savory and zesty stew was a delicious meal that I highly recommend.

At night, the streets of Pelourinho were about people, cold beer, and music. The drums of a bateria (a percussion band of a Samba school) resounded through the town, a solo musician played Brazilian classics like Garota de Ipanema on his guitar, and I sat down with an ice cold macrobrew lager, Skol, a very popular Brazilian brand owned by InBev.

A few other adventures in Salvador included Forte de São Marcelo, Mercado Modelo, a Capoeira practitioner simultaneously asking for donations and hitting on my girlfriend (who speaks Portuguese, I do not), being rather insulting and persistent I might add. It did cross my mind to return the favor and demonstrate some contact martial arts and put him on his back with a double-leg and drop an elbow to his forehead.

If you find yourself visiting Salvador, I would recommend seeing the churches, seeking out the best Bahian cuisine, escaping vendors and pan handlers and getting to the beach if you can, which I failed to do. On to Recife...

NYC: The Last Day pt. 2

Wrapping up at Prune, I got a text message from a friend saying that I must check out Tavern on the Green. Overlooking Central Park and not far from John Lennon's Strawberry Field's Memorial, Tavern on the Green has gone through several renovations since it's reincarnation in 1976 when it became the place to see and be seen in Manhattan.

I don't know if it was all the good food and drink or what, but I was feeling quite bold and decided it was a good idea to catch the subway to the edge of Central Park, laptop bag in hand, and run around like an idiot tourist looking for the Tavern. I ended up jogging around Central Park in the dark and successfully disorienting myself, resulting in me having to walk around half the damn block when I came out on the other side.

Finally arriving at the Tavern, it appeared that there was some kind of private event going on. To this day I'm still confused as to what exactly the function was. Anyway, it was still open to the public and there was a $10 cover, which I decided to pay, even if it was just to peek inside. The festivities were taking place on a sprawling outdoor patio with lanterns dangling from the natural canopy of a large tree. Live or recorded music? I couldn't tell. There was music, lots of people, and a bar. I bought a plastic cup of cabernet and explored the venue. Inside what appeared to be a banquet room there was dancing and a DJ, and hallways to other rooms full of mirrors, etched glass, brass, and other sparklies. Now, looking at their website, I get it. The Tavern has rooms for all kinds of events: The Crystal Room, The Crystal Pavilion, The Rafters Room, The Chestnut Room, The Terrace Pavilion, The Park Garden, and more. I had done what I came to do, and it was time go. I'd like to see Tavern on the Green again, maybe for, lunch!

Not wanting to test my luck in Central Park again, I hopped in a taxi and headed to the corner of 7th Avenue and Leroy Street to look for one of the last must-sees on my list, Little Branch. Arriving at my destination I was a little confused finding only a suspicious, unmarked brown door. But, now being a veteran of New York hidden bars and speakeasies, I entered without much hesitation and walked down a dimly lit staircase to find a small bar bathed in a reddish light packed with people. I was planning on only having one drink; then I met the man behind the bar. He had a bushy mullet/mohawk, a mustache and an Australian accent and was shaking up drinks so hard it looked like he would throw his shoulder out. Little did I know this man was nominated for Global Bartender of the Year at Tales of the Cocktail. His name is Sam Ross. Being a naive newcomer, I tested him with a Sazerac, which he aced. I was blown away at the combination of speed, precision, and ultimately the final product - this guy meant business. I deferred the choice of my next two drinks to him and guzzled down a Prescription Julep, and a Penicillin. I have not seen Sam Ross since, but heard of his success 3 months later at the Martin Miller's Gin Master's Competition in NYC courtesy of Jeffrey Morgenthaler. On that note, if you'd like to try Sam Ross' original, Penicillin, Jeff became familiar with his recipe at the Bar Convent in Berlin and could can recreate one at Clyde Common in Portland if you pay him a visit.

I admittedly did not do my next stop justice. I burned at least half an hour walking around looking for the famous Pegu Club, once again, missing a somewhat hidden door and small pink lion logo. I was exhausted, sleepy, and fairly drunk. You can learn more about the Pegu Club at their flashy website (pun intended). In the state I was in, I struggled to finish the tasty and tart Pegu Club Cocktail. A few drunk texts, a cab, and the night was over.

NYC: The Last Day pt. 1

I have fallen behind. I failed to even finish telling about my bar adventures in Manhattan and I'm sorry. I woke up on my second day of freedom (since the conference had ended) and made my way to Joe's Shanghai for a breakfast of soup dumplings. I left very content and in a daze most likely from the rich, meaty broth I had just consumed and hopped on the subway towards Wall Street.

After a very brief stroll around the financial district I decided it was time for another meal and navigated my way to Les Halles, where Travel Channel star and my hero Anthony Bourdain worked as executive chef for many years. The place was pretty packed and bustling with what I assumed were brokers and investment bankers on their lunch break. Alright, so it was probably a bad idea to order a plate of bratwurst, other sausage, and ham on a bed of sauerkraut when I wasn't exactly starving and was coming off a very heavy breakfast, but I did. While I found this dish to be nothing better than what I could find at Gustav's back home in Portland, I enjoyed it paired with a Leffe, a Belgian pale ale.

My time in Manhattan was limited and I had to make the most of my last day. Another subway ride to what is known as the Flatiron District to find the Flatiron Lounge. After strolling into an interview session for cocktail waitresses, I waited outside and took pictures of the purple Flatiron flag that hung over the sidewalk. The Flatiron Lounge struck me as a long, tubular, super chic bar. Bellying up to the bar, alone, to order my Maxwell's Return (rosemary, pineapple juice, lime juice, and yellow chartreuse) I felt my masculinity fading away. Nonetheless, great service and a good looking a drink was put in front of me. Smelled like rosemary and had a nice balance of citrus tartness and the signature herbal blend of chartreuse, no complaints here.

Down the street to the famous Union Square Cafe! By pairing great food and wine with a spirit of warm hospitality, USC has earned Zagat's Survey #1 ranking as New York's Most Popular Restaurant an unprecedented 8 times. Owner Danny Meyer is the author of New York Times Best Seller, Setting the Table: The Transforming Power of Hospitality in Business. The decor was simple, inviting, and brightly lit. Unfortunately, I wasn't in any condition for a full blown second lunch, so I sat at the bar and ordered some light fare - beef sirloin carpaccio garnished with crispy artichokes, rocket (arugula), and parmigiano reggiano and a couple oysters on the half shell. The dish was put together very nicely and the peppery nuttiness from the parmigiana and rocket was great with the slice of sirloin. I will definitely come back one day and do the menu justice.

Back on the subway to East Village. I had to check out a place called Prune, one of Anthony Bourdain's favorite haunts. I also had to order exactly what he ordered on the New York episode of No Reservations: roasted bone marrow and prawns in anchovy butter. This was the right choice. First time for me eating roasted bone marrow, and it was everything I thought it could be. Rich with a delicate beef flavor, spread on a bruschetta, oh yeah. The prawns? Hot as hell and hard for me to shell as an amateur, but buttery, salty, sweet and tender. An unfamiliar abbey brown ale to cap things off, Corsendonk, but the oh so familiar ripe fruitiness and brown sugar sweetness of Belgian ale.

To be continued...

Soup Dumplings at Joe's Shanghai

I knew my time in New York was limited, so the next morning I dragged my dehydrated self out of bed and onto the subway towards Chinatown. I had gotten a tip for a place famous for soup dumplings, or xiao long bao. These literally are dumplings filled with soup and a meatball created by wrapping a gelatin in a dumpling which melts in the steaming process. I had seen how these are made on the Food Network, but never eaten them. From what I was hearing, I was starting with some of the best at a place called Joe's Shanghai.

I arrived at 9 Pell Street when doors open at 11am. One of three locations, this one was a bit hard to find, tucked away in somewhat of an alley away from most of the foot traffic. There wasn't much to the ordering process - I was there for the soup dumplings. On the menu they were listed as "Crab Meat with Pork Meat Steamed Bun". I also ordered the Scallion Pancake per recommendation.

So these dumplings are fairly big and a little tricky to eat. I watched the seasoned veterans in the restaurant and followed along. You take the dumpling in your soup spoon, take a small bite out of the dumpling, slurp the soup inside, and devour the rest. Despite my best efforts, a couple still exploded on me and left my appetizer plate covered in broth. Anyhow, the soup was rich, meaty and delicious. The only thing that stopped me from completely inhaling these things was the temperature. I couldn't really get enough of this soup, dumpling, meatball combo. That is, until I was finished and the oil and fat left me in a hazy food coma.

I have not gotten around to hunting these down in the NW. A quick Google seems to point me towards the food carts on 10th and in downtown Portland...

Death & Co.

Buzzed and content, I strolled out of PDT and navigated my way through the streets of East Village not more than three blocks away to Death & Co, another must see for a cocktail enthusiast I was told. Now on this night I was able to find the doors, but only because I had tried to find the place the night before and walked right by the large, dimly lit storefront that blends right scenery of East 6th St.

If you're planning to visit, this place is popular - granted I'm a rookie to the area, I wouldn't risk trying to bring large groups of people. I dropped by fairly early in the night and I had to leave and come back to get a seat at the bar for one - the night before a group of us simply couldn't get in. Anyhow, once I was seated, head bartender Phil Ward mixed me three incredible whiskey cocktails.

One: Faithful Scotsman - Compass Box Asyla Scotch, Massanez Creme De Peche, fresh lemon juice, fresh pineapple juice, cumin syrup. This is easily one of the most new and innovative flavor combinations I have had, especially using scotch. You have this huge smoky scotch intertwined with peach while the citrus balances and pulls everything together. Dangerously tasty and easy to drink, this one didn't take me long.

Two: Shruff's End - Compass Box Peat Monster Scotch, Laird's Bonded Applejack, Benedictine, Peychaud's Bitters. Delicious and peaty, this cocktail was a bit more alcoholic and I loved it.

Three: Fancy Free - Rittenhouse Rye, Luxardo Maraschino, orange bitters.

This was one bad ass bar with some incredible bartenders. I was impressed by their speed, finesse, and precision. Arrive early, bring a friend, and arrange a ride home. I wouldn't mind working my way through the rest of their drink list one day.

PDT, NYC

I realize this is long overdue, but here we go. I had the opportunity to attend a conference in Manhattan for my job this past August. After the conference was over, my agenda was clear: see the best drinking Manhattan had to offer in two days. With a map and a few tips from Mr. Shoemaker at Teardrop Lounge (Portland, OR), I headed to East Village.

I was puzzled when I found myself right infront of 113 St. Mark's Pl. and saw nothing but what looked like apartments and a little place called Crif Dogs. I walked up and down the street and around the block, and even got some homemade Australian ice cream from a shop near by. I finally caved and asked a bartender at a bar that I could actually find. Ah, you go in Crif Dogs... and into the phone booth! Long story short, I found myself in a cozy and chic speakeasy called PDT and stepped up to the bar.

I was looking for a Mr. Jim Meehan, a man apparently responsible for much of the masterful mixology. He was out of town on business. Of course this didn't stop me from having a few: East Village Athletic Club Cocktail (a twist on The Last Word), Pearl Button (the menu jokes about whether it should be called caipirinha collins or corpse reviver # 7 - can you guess the recipe?), and a Bee's Sip. While all tasty, the Bee's Sip was definitely the newest experience for me. Chamomile infused Barsol Pisco, Masumi "Okuden Kantsukuri" sake, and Barenjager Honey Liqueur - this cocktail was Jim's shoutout to Pegu Club bartender Kenta Goto. This cocktail was a delicate balance of citrus, chamomile and honey, but the spirits weren't drowned out by honey which is my first thought when I think of honey drinks.

If you're in East Village, it's confirmed by me, this is a must see for a cocktail. If you go early you may have the place nearly to yourself. If you're too late, you may not be able to get in.

Brouwer's Cafe in Seattle

While visiting my friend in Seattle, we checked out a very cool place called Brouwer's. Located in Fremont at the corner of 35th and Phinney, Brouwer's has a large bier bar featuring an extensive selection of beers from around the world. They're open for lunch and dinner serving Belgian inspired dishes like steak and frites and a lamb burger that sounded delicious, and open late until 2am for drinks.

Brouwer's occupies a fairly large space which I liked because it made it easy for our group to find a spot to hang out. A renovated warehouse, the interior is characterized by lots of dark wood and exposed steel - and this cool cross in the background of my picture.

Alright, so you should probably just look at the beer lists yourself here. But, just to give you an idea, some bottled beers I see: twelve from Allagash, nine from Cantillon, a ton of Belgian names I don't recognize, Austrian beers, five trappist brewers, and a St. Bernardus Abt. 12 60th anniversery. Draught beers? How about Hennepin Saison, Duchesse de Bourgogne, Old Rasputin, Russian River Damnation or Salvation? This is a big deal to me because Russian River (Northern California) beers are very highly regarded (nine beers in the top 100 rated on beeradvocate.com), yet I have never been able to find even one in Portland.

I went for a Salvation, a Belgian Strong Dark Ale 9.0% ABV. This is one of the most complex and flavorful beers I've ever tried. Banana, cloves, dark fruit, chocolate - one of those beers where you could almost justify any tasting notes. The beer is a clear dark brown with amber highlights and a nice rocky foam. I really, really enjoyed this.

This is a must see for beer enthusiasts in the NW.